If the screen on your iPhone 12 is cracked, not reacting to touch, or not showing an image when it is turned on, follow this tutorial to replace it with a new screen, also known as a display assembly.
Because the factory pairs the combination earpiece speaker + sensor component fastened to the back of the display with your specific iPhone 12, you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any display replacement. It houses the flood illuminator, which is part of the Face ID biometric security function. Face ID will stop working if it is damaged or replaced, so take great care not to harm any of these components throughout this operation. Face ID may only be restored by Apple or an Apple-authorized specialist if it is damaged.
Note: Even when utilising an original Apple screen, True Tone capability is deactivated following a screen replacement..
Step 1: Remove the Pentelobe Screws
Before you begin, make sure your iPhone 12 battery is less than 25% charged. If a charged lithium-ion battery is unintentionally pierced, it can catch fire and/or explode.
Before you start disassembling your iPhone, make sure it’s turned off.
Remove the two 6.75 mm long pentalobe P2 screws located on the iPhone’s bottom edge.
The waterproof sealing on the iPhone will be compromised if the display is opened. Have replacement seals on hand before continuing, or take care not to expose your iPhone to moisture if you reassemble it without replacing the seals.
Step 2: Apply the Suction Cup
To soften the adhesive below the iPhone, apply a hairdryer or heat gun to the lower edge for about a minute.
If you’re using a single suction handle, place it on the phone’s bottom edge, avoiding the glass’s very edge.
To create a tiny space between the front panel and the back case, pull up on the suction cup with firm, consistent pressure.
Fill the gap with an opening pick.
Step 3: Separate the Screen Adhesive
Slicing through the glue keeping the display in place, slide the opening pick around the bottom left corner and up the left side of the iPhone.
To continue detaching the adhesive, re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone and move it up the right side.
Insert your pick into the phone’s right edge. Slide it over the top border and around the top-right corner.
If you push the opening pick too deep into the iPhone, internal components may be damaged.
Step 4: Opening the iPhone
Remove your suction handle now if you haven’t already.
Swing the display up from the right side to open the iPhone, just like a book’s front cover.
Don’t try to completely detach the display from the iPhone’s logic board just yet, as it’s still connected to the logic board by numerous delicate ribbon wires.
While you’re on the phone, lean the display against anything to keep it propped up.
Step 5: Remove the Battery & Display Connector Cover
Remove the two Y000 screws anchoring the battery and display connector cover, which are 1.1 mm long.
Take off the lid.
Step 6: Disconnect the Cables
Pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board using a spudger or a clean fingernail, then detach the display and digitizer cable connector.
To avoid the battery connector from unintentionally making touch with the socket and giving power to the phone during your repair, bend it slightly away from the logic board.
Step 7: Remove the Front Sensor Cover
Remove four screws holding the front sensor connection cover using a Y000 driver.
Three screws, each measuring 1.1 mm in length and One screw with a length of 1.4 mm.
Swing the cover up from the left side until the right-hand tiny clip unhooks. Take off the lid.
Step 8: Disconnect the Front Sensors
Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.
Step 9: Display Assembly
Remove the iPhone 12 Display Assembly.
Step 10: Unscrew the Speaker/Sensor Assembly
Remove the four screws that hold the speaker/sensor assembly to the display’s rear.
Phillips screws, 1.4 mm long
One Y000 screw with a shoulder-length of 1.7 mm
Y000 screw, 1.2 mm long
Step 11: Flip the Speaker Assembly Over
Gently pry up the top edge of the speaker with the point of a spudger.
Turn the speaker assembly over so that it is facing down and away from the display’s top border.
Step 12: Separate the Ambient Light sensor
To soften the glue fastening the sensors, use a hair dryer or heat gun to apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes.
Lift and detach the ambient light sensor from its notch in the front panel using the point of a spudger.
While prying, be careful not to damage the light sensor ribbon wires.
Continue to slide the spudger beneath the ambient light sensor and its cable to remove the glue holding the cable in place.
Step 13: Pry up the microphone
Lift and detach the microphone from its notch in the front panel using the point of a spudger.
Step 14: Pry up the Proximity sensor and Flood illuminator module
Lift the proximity sensor and flood illuminator module out of its notch in the front panel using the point of a spudger.
Step 15: Remove the Speaker and Front sensor assembly
Remove the front sensor assembly and earpiece speaker.
Check the location of the black plastic module housing these components during reassembly: Proximity Sensor and Flood illuminator.
The module must be positioned so that no glue gets in the way of these components.
Before installing your new replacement part, compare it to the original part to see whether any residual components or adhesive backings need to be transferred.
Follow the instructions above in reverse order to reassemble your gadget.
“Repair didn’t go as planned? Drop by EK Wireless or book an appointment on call to get it fixed at the earliest.”