Is your screen cracked? Is your touch not working? Is your OLED display broken? With a replacement OLED screen and digitizer, you can get your iPhone X back in working condition. If your iPhone X won’t power on, you might want to try a different screen.
Note: Because the combination earpiece speaker + sensor component glued to the back of the display is factory-paired to your specific iPhone, you must transfer it from your old display to your new one as described below during any display replacement. It houses the flood illuminator, which is part of the Face ID biometric security function. Face ID will stop working if it is damaged or replaced, so take great care not to harm any of these components throughout this operation. Face ID can only be restored by Apple if it is damaged.
Note: If your iPhone’s auto-brightness function still doesn’t work after your screen repair, make sure it’s up to date with iOS 12. Even when utilising an original Apple screen, True Tone capability is deactivated following a screen replacement.
Video Overview
Step 1: Remove the Pentelobe Screws
Before you begin, make sure your iPhone X battery is less than 25% charged. If a charged lithium-ion battery is unintentionally pierced, it can catch fire and/or explode.
Before you start disassembling your iPhone, make sure it’s turned off.
Remove the two 6.9 mm long pentalobe screws located on the iPhone’s bottom edge.
The waterproof sealing on the iPhone will be compromised if the display is opened. Have replacement seals on hand before continuing, or take care not to expose your iPhone to moisture if you reassemble it without replacing the seals.
Step 2: Apply the Suction Cup
To soften the adhesive below the iPhone, apply a hairdryer or heat gun to the lower edge for about a minute.
If you’re using a single suction handle, place it on the phone’s bottom edge, avoiding the glass’s very edge.
To create a tiny space between the front panel and the back case, pull up on the suction cup with firm, consistent pressure.
Fill the gap with an opening pick.
Step 3: Separate the Screen Adhesive
Slicing through the glue keeping the display in place, slide the opening pick around the bottom left corner and up the left side of the iPhone.
To continue detaching the adhesive, re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone and move it up the right side.
Insert your pick into the phone’s right edge. Slide it over the top border and around the top-right corner.
If you push the opening pick too deep into the iPhone, internal components may be damaged.
Step 4: Opening the iPhone X
Remove your suction handle now if you haven’t already.
Swing the display up from the right side to open the iPhone, just like a book’s front cover.
Don’t try to completely detach the display from the iPhone’s logic board just yet, as it’s still connected to the logic board by numerous delicate ribbon wires.
While you’re on the phone, lean the display against anything to keep it propped up.
Step 5: Remove the Battery & Display Connector Cover
Remove the five Y000 screws anchoring the battery and display connector cover, which are three 1.1 mm long, and one each of 3.1 mm and 3.7 mm screws.
Take off the lid.
Step 6: Disconnect the Cables
Pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board using a spudger or a clean fingernail, then detach the OLED panel, display and digitizer cable connector.
To avoid the battery connector from unintentionally making touch with the socket and giving power to the phone during your repair, bend it slightly away from the logic board.
Step 7: Display Assembly
Remove the iPhone X Display Assembly.
Step 8: Unscrew the Speaker/Sensor Assembly
Remove the 1.2 mm Y000 screw on the back of the display assembly, near the infrared camera port.
Beneath the screw you just removed lies a small metal grounding clip. If it didn’t already come out along with the screw, remove it now.
Remove two more Y000 screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly: 1.6 and 1.3 mm each
Step 9: Flip the Speaker Assembly Over
Gently pry up the top edge of the speaker with the point of a spudger.
Turn the speaker assembly over so that it is facing down and away from the display’s top border.
Step 10: Pry up the microphone
Lift and detach the microphone from its notch in the front panel using the point of a spudger.
Step 11: Pry up the Proximity sensor and Flood illuminator module
Slide an opening pick behind the flex cable and beneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module, working from left to right.
To detach the module from its notch in the front panel, gently wiggle and raise it.
Wiggle the ambient light sensor with tweezers and lift it out of the display’s notch.
Step 12: Remove the Speaker and Front sensor assembly
Remove the front sensor assembly and earpiece speaker.
Check the location of the black plastic module housing these components during reassembly: Proximity Sensor and Flood illuminator.
The module must be positioned so that no glue gets in the way of these components.
Before installing your new replacement part, compare it to the original part to see whether any residual components or adhesive backings need to be transferred.
Follow the instructions above in reverse order to reassemble your gadget.
“Repair didn’t go as planned? Drop by EK Wireless or book an appointment on call to get it fixed at the earliest.”